Meshigane: Plant-based culinary delights - review

The venture grew out of the partners’ Imale food truck (also vegan) in nearby Kibbutz Ma’ayan Zvi. Meshigane’s relaxed “shanti” ambiance is reminiscent of a Greenwich Village café. My brunch companion, local resident Maura Ruskin of Maura’s Pottery Studio across the street, termed the decor “industrial bohemian” in an entirely positive way.

Set back from the street, the restaurant offers outdoor and indoor tables, along with a couch to accommodate digital nomads, nursing mothers, or comfy conversations. When we were there, Leynova’s baby played contentedly on the wood-plank floor.

The cuisine, prepared in an open kitchen, generally falls into three categories: items resembling standard animal-based fare in taste and texture (such as egg dishes, cheeses, and even caviar, all made from alternative protein sources); items identical to standard fare but without eggs or dairy ingredients (pancakes, French toast, quiches, pastries); and inherently vegan items, which include salads and sandwiches you can grab for takeout. Gluten-free options and a children’s menu are also available.

Each element of the ample double breakfast (NIS 158) was enjoyable: tofu scramble infused with caramelized onions and turmeric for color; shakshuka; sliced bread; two individual salads; a variety of nut cheeses such as dried tomato and pecan; and an assortment of dips and spreads: coriander pesto, gazpacho, pickled onions, jam, tofu “egg” salad.

The shakshuka was crowned with Veggy brand ersatz yolks, which behaved and tasted like the real thing. The secret recipe was developed from soy by in-house chef and entrepreneur Niva Bento.

The side salad of Lalique lettuce, cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes topped with shaved almonds was crisp and fresh – although I’d have preferred the sweet mustard dressing on the side. This breakfast comes with a choice of coffee, tea, or cocoa. I chose instead a cold bottle of Growper orange-carrot juice (NIS 16).

We also sampled the beet salad (NIS 67), composed of thinly sliced beets, lettuce, raw zucchini, green onion, pear slices, black lentils, creamy cashew cheese, and roasted pecans, all bathed in a balsamic dressing and accompanied by a roll. A treat for the eyes and the taste buds. And I nibbled on an outstanding seasonal appetizer: mango tempura with chili-lime aioli dipping sauce (NIS 55).

Maura topped off her meal with a latte (NIS 15). The coffee menu includes such intriguing options as pecan coffee, Nutella coffee, and Lotus coffee. I sipped (through a sturdy paper straw) a delicious and nutritious purple shake composed of fruits and berries (NIS 38).

Desserts at Meshigane range from NIS 19 to NIS 48. I tasted the cinnamon-pecan yeast cake, which was everything a yeast cake should be.

We could barely waddle out at that point, unable to try other intriguing items such as mushroom bruschetta (NIS 40), pumpkin chestnut gnocchi (NIS 55), or Moshe B’Teva (NIS 65), composed of Ray’s brand vegan sausage (an Israeli product) wrapped in puff pastry. I look forward to sampling whatever creative, cruelty-free concoctions they’ll conjure up next.