Change is visible almost anywhere one goes in Jerusalem. It’s not just a matter of urban renewal with multi-story towers reaching skyward in place of single- or double-story structures. It’s the sense of impermanence.
Several stores or restaurants that had been operating on certain streets for decades suddenly disappeared and were replaced by stores selling an entirely different kind of merchandise.
Food products that used to be readily available at supermarkets are no longer on the shelves. Sadly missed are raspberry cordials with which to flavor creamy desserts.
Many coffee shops no longer serve ice cream or milk shakes, and most of those that do charge exorbitant prices for a couple of scoops or for a milkshake that barely fills the glass. And forget about a banana split or a genuine ice cream sundae.
There was a time when every coffee shop in Jerusalem served ice cream sundaes. Some also had banana splits on the menu: three flavors of ice cream flanked by half a banana cut lengthwise on each side, with a variety of sprinkles, and cherries or strawberries on top – fresh when in season, dried the rest of the year – plus a drizzle of raspberry cordial or chocolate syrup. Decadent but delicious.
Carvel, the famed American ice cream company which produces its own special soft ice cream in a cone or a cup, plus a variety of colorful ice cream cakes, had a franchise on King George Street near the corner of Ben-Yehuda Street during the 1970s and ‘80s. It was almost always full of customers – mostly American immigrants who craved the taste of what used to be home.
Even before Carvel came to Jerusalem, there was a coffee shop on the corner of King George and Jaffa which served banana splits, sundaes, and milkshakes, but that store is now part of a nationwide chain of female apparel.
On Jaffa Road, there was one of those American-style diners, with semi-circular banquettes, that in addition to its various ice cream offerings specialized in the most mouth-watering cakes. It has been replaced by a couple of shoe stores.
WHEN THE original Maskit chain of stores had branches in Jerusalem, one was located on HaRav Kook Street, in the impressive 19h-century building that had previously housed the Italian consulate. In addition to selling apparel, accessories, and household items, Maskit operated a coffee shop in the courtyard of the premises, where banana splits were the real McCoy, with all the trimmings.
Needless to say, Atara, which for 58 years was a Ben-Yehuda Street fixture, also had banana splits, sundaes, and milkshakes on its international menu, which included Belgian waffles, French onion soup, and Austrian strudel.
De Masa, which took over the premises, added British scones with jam and cream to the offerings. Today, the premises are dedicated to carnivores and house a kosher branch of McDonald’s.
There were other places in the inner city where banana splits were available, but these eateries are no longer there.
For a while there was a craze for gelato bars, but that also died down. Then came the smoothie era of yogurt-based fruit drinks and ice creams – but they weren’t quite the same as traditional ice cream such as Carvel’s, which has sweetened millions of people’s moods for almost a century. It is made primarily from milk, cream, sugar, and corn syrup.
The closest Israeli ice cream parlor to those under the Carvel logo is Katsefet (“whipped cream”), with its flagship store on Ben-Yehuda Street, plus branches all over town, including Jaffa Road and Keren Kayemet Street.
Of the ice cream parlors that exist in Jerusalem, each has a large selection of flavors and colors, but Katsefet – which has 35 branches throughout Israel, almost half of them gracing the fortunate capital – bills itself as “the Luna Park of flavors.” It is one of the few – if not the only – ice cream shops that sell mint ice cream, which is pleasingly refreshing. If the mint is a little too strong, it can be diluted with vanilla or chocolate ice cream. Milkshakes are priced at NIS 35, which is a little steep, but the serving is generous.
The menu lists French crepes and Belgian waffles – but unfortunately, no banana split.
Still there is cause for optimism.
Earlier this year, Carvel returned to Israel, preceded by a couple of months by Cinnabon, which has several whipped cream-topped drinks, although no ice cream. The two share space on the 3rd floor of the Azrieli commercial center in Tel Aviv.
The Malha Mall in Jerusalem (where there is already a Katsefet) is also part of the Azrieli Group, so there’s a possibility that if all works out well in Tel Aviv, Carvel may resurface in Jerusalem. Yum!