Curiosity killed the cat—or at least broke its back. Because the hardcore enduro version of the R12G/S, BMW’s intriguing machine, landed in Israel, and after testing it in the German plains, I had to try it on Israeli roads as well.
It waited for me, handsome with a retro ’80s vibe, wide handlebars, an astronomical seat height, and mostly blocky tires as if we were heading to a motocross track rather than something more like circling Israel in a new Iron Butt-style challenge.
The destination was a traditional riding event for BMW Motorrad riders in Israel, hundreds of brand enthusiasts meeting each year to share experiences, including the latest “must-buy” gadget, the trip they took across the Alpine passes in Europe, and mainly conversation—“about the situation”—all while consuming unreasonable amounts of meat, a kind of social gathering where everyone knows everyone, and everyone shares the same scratch in the shape of two wheels.
On one of the hottest days of the year, the direction was one of the hottest places in the country, Ganey Huga Park, Beit She’an Valley. As usual, there was a choice of road or off-road—one I also chose—where riding behind a brave couple navigating a dirt path on a nearly quarter-ton machine called the R1300GS Adventure was truly an adventure, a kind of extreme. It takes courage to do this, and especially a very good partnership with the woman behind you, mainly trusting that she’ll stay even after such a journey.
On the other hand, the R12G/S at my feet felt like a lightweight enduro, and the rougher the terrain, the happier we (and I) were—a machine that brought me back to the modest, adventurous days of the 1980s Dakar, both in looks and in feel. It feels free there and delivers many smiles as you stand, jump over bumps, and hop over small mounds.
But then it turned out that the tougher part was actually on the road. In this configuration, with the combat tires it wore and minimal wind protection, it takes courage and physical fitness—not to mention endurance—to ride 400 km in a single day, most of it on asphalt. More sensible tires and a bigger fairing would work wonders here, making this wonderful retro machine more manageable on the road.
So until the next gathering, on cooler, better days—go ride, with friends, as a pair, or alone on the road or off-road—on two wheels it’s always a different kind of experience.
BMW R12G/S | Specs
Engine: Air/oil-cooled two-cylinder boxer. Four-stroke 1,170 cc, 109 hp at 7,000 rpm, 11.8 kg·m torque at 6,500 rpm
Wet weight: 229 kg
Performance: 0–100 km/h in 4.1 seconds, top speed over 200 km/h
Price: From NIS 145,000