Tbilisi, Georgia, is a city of surprising contrasts, blending the old and the new, the ancient and the modern.
On one hand, it offers modern comforts with Western services and brand-name shopping malls. But you’ll also find narrow, old cobblestone streets, ancient churches, and traditional houses with picturesque balconies. This mix of new and old, well-maintained and neglected, is its unique charm, waiting to be discovered and experienced.
You can get a good impression of Tbilisi in two intensive days, but to truly experience the city, it’s best to dedicate more time to it. The best part? Wandering among ancient churches, visiting museums, enjoying the local cuisine, and soaking in the vibrant nightlife – all at very affordable prices.
Tbilisi’s Old City is compact and easy to navigate, which makes it simple to create a walking route that links most of the main sites. You can complete the whole route in one intensive day or spread it out over several days, depending on your pace. To easily hop between sites, use the Bolt app to book a taxi, as they are incredibly cheap.
My proposed route begins at the Bridge of Peace with a cable car ride up from Rike Park to Narikala Fortress. From there, walk down (with the option of passing through the Botanical Gardens) toward the bathhouse district. Then, continue strolling through the Old City’s alleys to the clock tower. You’ll then head to Freedom Square and continue along Rustaveli Avenue. To cap off the day, take the cable car up to Mtatsminda Park, and then ride the funicular down.
Begin your journey at the manicured Rike Park. From there, stroll across the striking Bridge of Peace, a sleek glass and steel pedestrian bridge connecting Tbilisi’s Old City with the modern side of the river. As the sun sets, the bridge is illuminated by over 30,000 LED lights, making a nighttime visit an absolute must.
From the park, take the cable car up to the viewpoint at Narikala Fortress. You’ll see the Mother of Georgia statue, which holds a sword for her enemies and a cup of wine for her guests, symbolizing the Georgian national spirit of strength, defense, and hospitality. The 20-m. statue is lit up at night and clearly visible from the city streets.
Narikala Fortress is currently closed, as is the direct path down. However, you can still enjoy the stunning views and descend through the Botanical Gardens (admission about 4 GEL). It’s possible to reach the gardens by taking a zipline or by walking down a path with many steps and slopes. Don’t expect the level of meticulous upkeep you might find in parks in Batumi or the US. After your visit, exit through the lower gate and walk to the bathhouse district.
Tbilisi was founded on this very spot, where the city’s hot sulfur springs were discovered. The Abanotubani bathhouse district is home to ancient, still-active sulfur baths, the most picturesque of which is the Orbeliani Bathhouse. Its beautiful facade is adorned with turquoise tiles, intricate geometric patterns, and pointed arches that evoke the style of Persian palaces.
A small stream flows through the area, creating a tiny waterfall. Directly across from the Orbeliani Bathhouse is a small bridge known as the “Love Bridge.” It is famous for a romantic tradition where couples attach colorful padlocks as a symbol of their eternal love.
Enjoy a relaxing soak in one of the bathhouses. Private rooms with thermal baths are also available, and you can even book a “scrub” treatment. I didn’t get a chance to try it myself, but I’ve heard it’s a truly unique experience.
Continue to Vakhtang Gorgasali Square (also known as Meidan Square). Don’t miss the “I love Tbilisi” sign and look across the Mtkvari River to see the Metekhi Church. Built in the 13th century, this historic church stands on a cliff with a bronze statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi, at its entrance.
Cross the square and wander through the charming alleys, where you can stop to eat and take in the atmosphere. The most beautiful alleys are Cotton Rows, Jan Shardeni, and Erekle Street. As you walk, keep an eye out for sculptures, street pianos, souvenir shops, and more.
Pay attention to the stylish balconies and courtyards that are characteristic of the city’s architecture. This path will lead you to the Gabriadze Puppet Theater, which you’ll recognize by its famous clock tower. Every hour, a puppet show performs, reminiscent of the Astronomical Clock in Prague.
If you walk left from here, you’ll reach Liberty Square, the central square of Tbilisi. A large golden statue of St. George stands in the heart of the square, which replaced a statue of Lenin that was removed after Georgia gained its independence from the Soviet Union.
From there, walk down Rustaveli Avenue to see the Parliament, Opera House, museums, churches, and shops. The avenue ends with the cable car to Mtatsminda Park, where you can have dinner or enjoy the amusement park rides.
Where we stayed in the Georgian capital
OUR BASE IN Tbilisi was the Hilton Garden Inn Tbilisi Riverview, a high-quality, well-designed hotel located on the banks of the river, about 2 km. from the Old City. Being part of the global Hilton chain ensured a modern hospitality experience with high standards of service and cleanliness.
The hotel has 160 rooms and suites. Our corner room had a panoramic view of the Old City and the river, and was suitable for up to three people. The hotel’s design is modern, with a playful use of colors and accessories. The kettle and mini-bar in our room were a trendy, colorful SMEG set. Of course, we enjoyed a king-size bed, a huge flat-screen TV, free Wifi, a large safe, plenty of USB outlets, and all the high-quality toiletries.
The hotel lobby is designed with a subtle, colorful aesthetic, and features a snack kiosk and a bar. The hotel’s restaurant, Together & Co., serves a mix of local and international dishes. In the evening, when we returned tired and hungry, we ordered khachapuri (a traditional Georgian dish of cheese-filled bread), pizza, and a particularly delicious baguette pizza, all at very reasonable prices.
In the morning, we ate in the dining room on the sixth floor, enjoying a rich buffet breakfast with made-to-order omelets, fresh croissants, cakes, and an excellent latte. Then we took a taxi and were in the Old City within a 10-minute drive.
A culinary journey in Tbilisi is an experience, and wherever you go, you’ll pay less than you are used to.
The alleys of the Old City bustle with small, charming restaurants offering Georgian food, as well as Western cuisine. Along Kote Afkhazi Street are bakeries serving hot khachapuri straight from the oven, as well as desserts like the famous Chimney Cake, and unique wine ice cream. You’ll also find a few kosher restaurants in the area.
For a quick meal, the Galleria Mall offers an entire floor with a food court and a wide range of very affordable options. Personally, I prefer the Bazari Orbeliani food market over other food courts. There, you’ll find a selection of stalls offering a variety of cuisines, including Georgian, Italian, Asian, American, and more.
This is especially convenient for a family or group that wants to combine different styles in the same meal. You simply go to a counter, place your order, and you’ll get a buzzer to let you know when the food is ready. Then you can take it and sit in one of the many pleasant spots within the complex.
You can also take a taxi to Fabrika, a former Communist-era textile factory that has been converted into a cool entertainment hub with a young vibe. It houses a hostel, restaurants, and coffee shops. Another option is to take the funicular or cable car up to Mtatsminda Park, where you can dine at the Funicular Restaurant and enjoy Georgian and international food with a view of the city.
A short drive from the city center will take you to two breathtaking landmarks that are not to be missed.
First, take a quick ride to the Holy Trinity Church (Sameba). As one of the world’s tallest Orthodox cathedrals, its impressive entrance and magnificent golden dome make it a stunning sight. The church is on a hill and can be accessed by a large staircase or a ramp.
Then visit the Chronicles of Georgia monument, a worthwhile 30-minute taxi ride from the city center. This colossal monument features 16 massive, 35-m. columns carved with intricate reliefs that vividly tell the story of Georgia’s history. The site requires a climb up a long staircase, but the effort is rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view of Tbilisi Lake.
The writer was a guest of Hilton Garden Inn Riverview.